On a horse-drawn carriage, you travel down Marrakech's main Mohammed V Avenue to Jemaa el-Fna. By day, Jemaa el-Fna is little more than a crowded square, but as night falls, you'll see why it's the city's must-see. Beneath a sky streaked with red and violet, the show begins to unfold. Snake charmers tease hypnotic moans from their flutes. Storytellers sit cross-legged as crowds gather round. And cooks' grills sizzle with tender strips of lamb.